People were
wondering where Ian had gotten to. He was around last fall, and
then did a bunch of permanents, was at the spring social, and
then suddenly he was gone. Turns out he had gone on a walk-about.
Here's the unauthorized posting of a message which Cheryl Lynch
forwarded to the forum.
Wicked Permanent
by Ian Attewell
I'm happy to hear there is interest in
my progress and am more than happy to share my progress to the
Rando list. I've added a couple more thousand or so kilometres
since our last exchange (now 7500km). I continued through Mexico
keeping to the Pacific coast. It was incredibly hot through August
and if I am sure my hill climbing abilities have improved. In
Mexico I seemed always to be climbing hills. There was one particular
hill out of Puerto Vallarta to a town called El Tuito that
was 30kms long in up to 40 degree heat. Not sure what the elevation
was, but it was high. After a few more weeks, I turned in the
direction of San Cristobal, Chiapas (still Mexico) - a 50km continuous
climb to well over 2000 metres. I´d already ridden 40kms
before I started that climb. I had trouble
getting my speed above 7km/h and found myself at night near the
top of the mountain. I slept in my tent in a family´s back
yard. I´ve attached a link to a picture taken during the
climb. Hopefully, it
works!
From San Cristobal, I rode to Palenque
to see the Maya ruins. Then made may way to Guatemala. I left
Mexico at a small town - had to find the immigration officer
to stamp me out of the country (he was busy watching TV) before
loading my bike in a canoe type vessel to cross the river that
marks the border. Then crossed into Guatemala and hit the worst
road I´ve ever ridden on. Up to that border crossing, I
had covered 7000km with a total of six flats. In the 70km from
the Guatemalan border town until I almost hit asphalt, I had
seven pinch flats, exhausting my supply of spares. At the seventh
flat, I was only 5km from where the asphalt started. I hitched
a ride with the Guatemalan police to the next town (Las Cruces,
about 20km) and set about trying to repair at least one tube.
The pinch flats had put big holes in the tubes and patches wouldn´t
hold. 700 tires and tubes are
rare in this part of the world and I couldn´t buy a new
tube in the small town, just dubious quality patches. I finally
got one tube to hold air and was able to continue to Flores in
the north east of
Guatemala. Then headed to a town called Coban (backtracking a
little) with the idea of staying put for a month and learning
Spanish. I´ve been here a week or so and on Monday move
into an apartment for three weeks - what luxury! (One week of
Spanish lessons completed, three
more to go). The climb into Coban made Mexico´s hills seem
like they weren´t really trying. My front panniers both
required repair so all the weight was on the back of the bike
(maybe 50lb) and at certain points I came off the bike because
I couldn´t keep the front wheel on the ground. Fortunately
(?) I was only managing a speed of about 4km/h. The 75km day
took me a total of 7.5 hours and my right knee was hurting (still
a little twingy even now).
The climate is cooler here as I´m
at around 1300 metres above sea level and the town is friendly.
From here, I intend to head to El Salvador and keep heading south.
A friend in Vancouver is organizing the shipment of a couple
of new tires (Scwalbe Marathon XR ´s, 35mm) and I have
high hopes for their performance on less than ideal road surfaces.
The bike is doing amazingly well for all
the abuse it has taken and the almost complete lack of maintenance
it has received. Next time though, I might seriously consider
a 26¨wheel tourer. With the weight of all my gear, I don´t
think the 700 wheels offer any particular speed advantage and
are almost certainly slower on rough roads. Still, they mean
that I have to be careful.
I still think Vancouver to Cabo San Lucas
or vice versa would be wicked permanent.
Thanks again for checking on my progress.
Hope all is well in the BC Rando world.
Best,
Ian.
Cabo
San Lucas
October 3, 2009 |